Noah's Ark



Bear Sighting

 


  



  

After our visit yesterday to Telegraph Cove, we crossed Johnstone Strait and cruised through the Plumper Islands and across Blackfish Sound to Goat Island Anchorage located on the southeast side of Crease Island.  This beautiful archipelago is a kayak/dinghy paradise with many islets, coves, nooks & crannies and a gateway to abundant wildlife.  We saw our first bear sighting of the trip; he was grazing on an islet not far from our boat, then several dolphins swam along our port side, and a crane perched on the boat deck railing; perhaps they smelled food on the BBQ and wanted to hitch a ride two-by-two.  I must admit, the sliced potatoes and “Eye of Round Pepper Steak” roasting on the “barbee” did smell good.

Whale of a Story

During our visit to Telegraph Cove, we visited the Whale Museum housing the bones of these impressive mammals.  It’s the real thing, no replicas here.  A complete skeleton of a rare Fin Whale displayed at the museum was very impressive indeed.  This 20 meter long (over 60 feet) Fin Whale was struck by a 78,000 ton ship, the MV Galaxy Cruise Ship in June of 1999.  The ship was unaware of the strike until it arrived in Vancouver Harbour and discovered the dead whale wedged across its bow near the waterline.  Telegraph Cove made a request for the whale carcass and began the process of preserving the skeleton, which is now on display at the museum.  Telegraph Cove is also home to huge octopus, some over 10 feet in diameter who like to hide in the Cove beneath the docks. 

A Special Day



U'mista Burial Grounds

 

U'mista Cultural Centre

 Went for a six mile dinghy ride to Alert Bay on Cormorant Island to visit the U’mista Cultural Centre showcasing native Potlatch masks and head dresses that were banned in the late 1800's, and the display of exquisitely weaved baskets.  Walked the quaint narrow streets and boardwalk along the sea and stopped at the native burial grounds with towering totems.  The village has a peaceful setting, which evidently changes to a more hurried pace during the tourist season.  After our cold dinghy ride back to Port McNeill, we went out to dinner with friends we had met earlier in the week.  Seafood at the Northern Lights Restaurant was excellent as was the company.  A party ensued after dinner with two of us ladies singing, while another friend played the piano and another, the guitar -- a perfect ending to a perfect day.


 



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Alert Bay



Social Time






Port Harvey Barge Store/Cafe

 





We spent one night at Port Harvey and enjoyed visiting with the owners of the facility who had built new docks for their marina and were busy making other improvements to the property.  Port Harvey, situated in a rustic setting, has a well stocked store on a barge with a seasonal café upstairs.  Left Port Harvey at 12:40 with 4 to 6 foot following seas in Johnstone Strait with 20 knot winds.  Four hours later, clear weather and 2 foot seas greeted us as we neared Port McNeill.  Shortly after docking, we were invited aboard a neighboring boat for “happy hour” along with another boating couple plus the owners of the Port McNeill Fuel Dock/Marina, Bruce & Nancy -- the group included two pilots, a fire fighter, and a truck-stop owner which made for an interesting conversation.    All three boating couples were from the states heading to Alaska, a common group interest.  Spent the next day getting provisions for the galley and purchased some electronic charts for Alaska to complete our set.





Port McNeill Marina/Fuel

 





Friends Bruce and Nancy

 









Care for the Past



Port Neville Store/Museum





Port Neville Museum



Today we made a stop at historic Port Neville off Johnstone Strait and tied up at the Government Wharf for a short visit.  The old log building at Neville served as a post office in 1895 and then as a store in 1924.  The postal service was in operation until 2010, maintained by the Hansen family who lived in Port Neville since 1891.  The remaining family members moved to Campbell River and the building now serves as a museum.  As we walked around the grounds, Alex the caretaker came out to greet us.  He looked the part of a historic figure and was eager to visit with us.  We asked him where he buys his supplies, answer -- he takes his boat to Kelsey Bay and then drives down to Campbell River about an hour’s drive.  After our visit at Port Neville, we motored to Port Harvey Marina on W. Cracroft Island to spend the night.

 


Port Neville

 

Rainslicker Day

We left Blind Channel in the pouring rain with intermittent showers along the way.  Transited Greene Pt. Rapids during slack water and cruised through Chancellor Channel, which connects with Johnstone Strait.  Arrived at Kelsey Bay on Vancouver Island around 14:00 with light rain.  The Wharfinger (Harbour Master) offered us a ride into Sayward village so we could grocery shop.  A pleasant fellow sporting a rusty pickup truck, some missing teeth, and a coat that smelled of smoked fish; nonetheless, we enjoyed his company and he gave us some tips on how to set prawn traps -- 250 to 300 feet deep.  He pulled up 400 to 500 prawns earlier, not a bad catch.  The rain let up and the sun shone on the mountains providing us with a nice view out our “back door.”  Rusting hulks of WWII frigates make up the harbour’s breakwater, which added an artistic foreground to the scene.

Rainy Easter



Alone on the Docks







Blind Channel Resort





 



Chocolate Bunny & Cookies



In the morning we said our goodbye’s at Shoal Bay and cruised one hour to Blind Channel Resort via Mayne Passage on the east end of West Thurlow Island  This wilderness resort has a small store, gift shop, and a seasonal restaurant that serves gourmet meals.  Being so early in the boating season, however, the restaurant wasn’t yet open for business.  On the plus side, we had the docks all to ourselves and enjoyed a quiet Easter dinner on board.  I brought out the chocolate Easter bunny for dessert and Leonard made some yummy oatmeal cookies.  We put on a pot of tea (tea bags from Victoria's Empress Hotel) and watched the mist from today’s rain rise through the forested hills.





Easter Dinner



People Make a Difference

Today was a glorious sunny day with placid water and great views of towering snow covered peaks along Nodales Channel.  We stopped at Cameleon Harbour for lunch and then continued through Cordero Channel to Shoal Bay on East Thurlow Island for an overnight stay on the public wharf.  Mark, the owner of the cabin/lodge at Shoal Bay invited us to join him and his wife along with their friends visiting from Holland for a potluck pizza dinner.  We contributed sausage, pineapple, and cheese for the pizza toppings, another boater contributed zucchini and peppers, Mark’s wife Cynthia made the pizza dough, and Mark cooked the pizza in his outdoor home-built pizza oven.  Mark is an energetic and knowledgeable individual, who engaged everyone in lively conversation; we all had such a great time.  No need for a five-star resort when there’s plenty of comfort food and interesting people with real life stories to share.





Shoal Bay Public Wharf

 



Mark & his Pizza Oven


















Wilderness Escape






Anchorage in Small Inlet



Left Campbell River at 7:30am and reached Seymour Narrows an hour later near slack water for a safe and uneventful passage.  The currents in Seymour Narrows run to 16 knots on the flood and 14 knots on the ebb so good timing is everything.  After passing Seymour Narrows, we left civilization behind and a remote wilderness lay before us.  We cruised along Discovery Passage and entered the narrow channel of “Small Inlet” on the northwest side of Quadra Island, a pretty anchorage surrounded by steep forested mountains.  After lunch, we went ashore and walked the half mile trail crossing the Island to Waiatt Bay -- had great fun digging for butter clams.  Java enjoyed the hike and was a pooped pooch by the time we got back to the boat (home).



Small Inlet







Butter Clams & Snail







Fishing Legacy




Our "Citizen" Fold-up Bicycles 





Maritime Heritage Centre



 









While in Campbell River, we visited the Maritime Heritage Centre and saw the famous BCP 45 Seine Fishing Boat that was on the back of the Canadian five dollar bill from 1972 to 1986.  She was built in 1927 and in operation for nearly 70 years.  We enjoyed the history of well known fishermen from an earlier time and saw interesting maritime artifacts.  In town, we stopped by a local fishing supply store, where the knowledgeable clerk helped us with items we needed for salmon fishing, a sport that's no longer an inexpensive past time!  It definitely would be cheaper to buy fish from the local fishing boats; but you never know, we might actually have to catch our own dinner as we move further north – so begins our own fishing legacy.  We bought provisions to restock our galley, put on more fuel, and filled one of the propane tanks used for the galley stove/oven.





1927 Seine Fishing Boat



Canadian 5 Dollar Bill 1972-1986

Over and Under

The “Snow Birds” were practicing their precision flying again this morning; needless to say, we didn’t leave Comox until 11am.  The Blue Angels may be faster, but the Snow Birds demonstrate tighter formations.  Today they flew in front of our bow out over the water; it was as if we had a private showing.  We departed Comox during low tide (prior to minus tide) and had 11-15 feet of water under us while crossing over the Comox Bar.  Once beyond the bar, we set the auto pilot for the long 4-hour cruise to Campbell River.  The warm sun and purr of the engines made us rather sleepy; Leonard said he felt like an air traffic controller falling asleep on the job.  I made a pot of coffee and prepared some snacks to perk us up.  Java peered over the steps looking down on the galley, no doubt wanting a snack of her own.  We perked up again when we recognized a blue and yellow tug towing a barge.  It appeared to be the same tug (of Northwest Tugs, Seattle) that we rode on several years ago going to Juneau, Alaska -- a benefit auction item which we had purchased.  As we approached the town of Campbell River, the current was running swiftly; our speed dropped from 8 knots to 4.5 knots.  We headed closer to shore to get out of the strongest part of the current, which brought our speed back up to 6.5 knots.  After docking, we went to the RipTide Pub (an appropriate name) located upland from the marina and enjoyed a delicious salmon burger, salad, and chowder.

Meshing of Different Worlds

Arrived at Comox yesterday evening at 18:10 after successfully navigating the infamous Comox Bar and harbour entrance.  Last year, we were holdup at Comox for four days waiting out a wind storm.  The wind pulled on our lines so hard, that the wood railings on the dock were chaffed.  Thankfully, we were greeted by placid waters on this trip.  We moored in the harbour among the fishing fleet with beautiful snow peaked mountains as a backdrop.  While having lunch the following day, we heard the roar of “Snow Birds” (Blue Angels equivalent) overhead, apparently practicing for an air show.  Our boat was in the perfect spot to view the maneuvers through the salon windows.  After the "birds" departed, we walked to the historic Filberg Heritage Lodge and Park.  The lodge, built between 1930 and 1932, was the home of Robert Filberg and his family, who made their money in the logging industry.  We also did a little grocery shopping in this small retirement community, while trying to avoid the numerous “HoverRounds” and “Walkers.”  Comox certainly seems to be a meshing of many different worlds.

Painters and Anchors

Today, we took the dinghy ashore on Hornby Island.  Tribune Bay has an extensive shallow beach and the tide was going out so we brought our long painter line of 160 feet, but even that was not sufficient to reach a rock or tree to tie off.  We threw the dinghy anchor in the thick sandy beach and took turns standing watch.  One of us kept the dinghy floating so as not to become grounded, while the other walked ashore to explore.  Glad we brought our high-topped rubber boots!  Departed Hornby Island today at 15:15 and arrived in Comox at 18:10 with smooth sailing.

Thrilling Ride

Left Nanaimo today passing several anchored cargo ships outside the harbor that had been there for several days.  Started north with 2-4 foot seas that later grew to 8 feet sending spray over the bow and along the pilothouse windows.  It was a thrilling roller coaster ride; I’m just glad we were not meeting those waves broadside!  The seas calmed down as we reached the Ballenas Islands and then we rode 2-4-foot waves that faded away to smooth calm waters as we neared Hornby Island, our destination for an evening on the hook.  After anchoring in Tribune Bay, we got out the long-handled brushes and the fresh water wash-down to bath the boat, ridding her of an unwanted layer of salt spray.



Hornby Island



Nanaimo Favorites



Hudson Bay Bastion



Newcastle Quarry Site



Newcastle Quarry Site



Said goodbye to Nanaimo and its 1853 historic Hudson Bay Co. Bastion, along with other favorite attractions like the Dinghy Dock Pub (Canada’s only floating pub), and the unique Marine Park on nearby Newcastle Island with its open spaces, beautiful campgrounds, and intriguing quarry sites left over from the late 1800’s.  There is so much to see and do in Nanaimo that it continues to be one of our favorite destinations.



Dinghy Dock Pub



Cherry Blossoms & Ice



Ice on the Cap Rails



Frost on the Docks



Cherry Blossoms



We arrived in Nanaimo yesterday via transiting Dodd Narrows, which was running a current of 3.6 knots effectively bringing “Got d’ Fever’s” speed to 9.9 knots through the Narrows.  Spent the night at Port Nanaimo, and to our surprise, woke up to frost covered docks and ice on the boat’s cap rails.  Even Java’s potty turf was frozen, making for a cold morning squat.  We could see our breath in the crisp air, but by 8:30am the ice had melted and the sun shown for most of the day.  We got out the folding-bicycles and enjoyed a ride along Nanaimo’s extensive promenade.